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The Crushed Trumpeter - Lviv, Ukraine

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The Crushed Trumpeter - Lviv, Ukraine

Having explored at length the whole city of Lviv, I can confidently say it is a charming and delightful place to spend your lazy days and boozy nights in its comfortable cafés and bars (respectively). Although, when I say "the whole city", by that I mean the tiny touristic centre. But as this very recent and accurate landscape picture shows you, there's not that much outside of the city walls. Now and then, Turkish or Polish soldiers besieging the city, but, really, not too much more.

Lviv, last week-end

As you can see, Lviv is a very well preserved city. In the picture at least. You might be a bit suspicious by now.  You should be, really. No? Nevermind. Let me show you in one single photo, both how the central "market square" looks like, and how to properly hold a trident.

 
Lviv's Rynok (Market) Square

Lviv's Rynok (Market) Square

 

To be perfectly honest, this was supposed to be a rather history-heavy Blog Post. No ukuleles, nothing about my backpack or me failing to get you to order a lovely postcard, nothing but rock-solid history facts. I had a great book with lots of (un-)trustworthy anecdotes and stories from Lviv. Unfortunately, I forgot it at the Posta/Pasta place from the previous Blog Post. Despite having been back there twice, I still haven't managed to make anyone understand what I was after. So your best bet for light hearted entertainment, songs and first hand knowledge, as well as stories from 3 colourful locals, is still the LVIV PODCAST. You can download it, and unlike what you're reading now, it will entertainingly teach you lots of things about the city and its varied history.

A fact I do (vaguley) remember from that little book, is that in the year of 1826, the troubled Austrian Burgmeister of "Lemberg" (Lviv) brought over a bunch of specialists for an important meeting. A worrying crack in the City Hall's Tower was threatening to become a catastrophe. The Alarm Bells were ringing. Metaphorically. Nobody dared ring the tower's bells at that point obviously. No need to any way, the bored trumpeter, standing outside the Hall's front doors was the one sounding the hour, and the eventual alarm.

Thankfully, the experts were formal. There was absolutely no risk of anything collapsing in this fine building. Despite the appearances it was in top notch shape. German-Austrian craftsmanship and all that... But while they were cutting into the celebratory cherry Strudel, the carpenter, which we shall call Franz, because that I cannot remember, barged in the meeting room screaming "My Meisters, the Tower is collapsing!". And as these words were spoken, the tower did indeed topple, and the deadly tons of stone crashed down, to flatten the trumpeter and his instrument.

An hommage, fittingly, in E 'flat'.

 
 

By the way, you may have noticed the big wooden Ukulele having changed a bit. Well, well done, good spot, it has changed a fair amount: While in Kiev, two young artist, who happened to have the exact same age, and who also happened to be twins, gave my Tenor Ukulele a new artistic touch. Something, you might agree, very "outdoorsy".

I always felt that if one of us was ever going to get a big front-tattoo, it would be my ukulele first. And now, it carries around mountains, wild grass and a refreshing river to relax and inspire your imagination, when my music fails to do so. A great big thank you to them both, Mishel and Nikol whose work you can admire (or even order) on: [reminder to ask them the link].

Do like and comment below !

And, speak soon then. Ben

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Autumn L(v)eaves - Lviv, Ukraine

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Autumn L(v)eaves - Lviv, Ukraine

There's something special about this season. You know, the one that's almost finished. Yes, Autumn. Well, it's got a very musical feel. L(v)eaves swaying in the still-not-too-cold breeze, and others crackling under your calm steps... So naturally, this has inspired my ukuleles and my backpacking self, to write an Autumn song. An Autumn Lviv Song.

 
Autumn Lvivs

Autumn Lvivs

 

It's not exactly early, especially with snow about to start falling on the Ukrainian city of Lviv. But I do tend to  ̶L̶v̶i̶v̶  l(v)eave things to the last moment. It's partly my fault for being a bit too relaxed, and partly your fault for not even once pressing me to share with you a new song. No impatient messages, or l(v)ivid emails urgently pleading for new original ukulele music. You've left me with no pressure, in a city full of chocolates, deserts and coffee, sipping my days away in comfortable cafés, between cobbled stones and old Austrian buildings.

Ukulele Ben and the gang on Lviv's central square, Ukraine

Ukulele Ben and the gang on Lviv's central square, Ukraine

And so, I stroll and ponder in Lviv's little square as Autumn ends. Almost starting to l(v)ive here among the locals and the roasting coffee beans. But Autumn's musical soul still got to mine somehow, thankfully, and a melody, which might not-so-discretely wink to another autumn tune, is yours to enjoy.

 
 

Alors que cette année s'endort lentement, au rythme de courtes journées, somnolant, je laisse l'hiver prendre racine, encore une fois, et se dessine l'esquisse des traits que je souhaiterais près de moi.

These Autumn Lvivs, carress my soul, and in the leaves that soon shall fall, I see the warmth that a fragile heart always calls, this as the cold sets itself around Lviv's old walls...

... still, these branches do sway, now at the other end of the year. And to the cobbled stones where I stray, as well as to us both right here, these Autumn leaves, they bring a call, down from the trees, to our soul. With them we sing, never to leave, our Autumn days, in Autumn Lviv.

Back from this ponderous promenade through the University park, returning on the historical centre's cobbled stones, I happened to walk by a sweet little place, Posta. The place with Lviv's "largest poscard collection". Not only do they have lots of poscards, they also have plenty of postcards, which I happen to be very fond of.  All over the walls and the tables, a charming collection gives the place a special mood, up until you receive a special delivery, a letter, containing... the bill.

I would be thrilled to send you one from here in Lviv, Ukraine, right to your very doorstep, with written melodies and (sometimes) inspired doodles. Not only because you'd get a little something  from a beautiful city far away, but also because I would really enjoy sending tokens of how charming this city has been to my instruments, my backpack, and to myself.

Click Here and Receive a little Postcard to your doorstep !!

 
Let me send you a little Postcard !

Let me send you a little Postcard !


Such Autumn, much leaves, very wow

Such Autumn, much leaves, very wow

 

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"Politics, eh?" - Kiev, Ukraine

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"Politics, eh?" - Kiev, Ukraine

Politics, eh? It's complicated. Especially for Ukraine these days.

 
Pictures of soldiers and of the Eastern front, displayed in Sunny Odessa

Pictures of soldiers and of the Eastern front, displayed in Sunny Odessa

 

Since the revolution in the beginning of 2014, sparked by a rejection of the omnipresent corruption and a desire to be politically closer to Europe than Russia, things have changed a lot. And to get a better grasp of the situation, you would actually do better to listen to a couple of locals talk about it, than read a foreigner's impression. And you can do just that on the KIEV Ukulele Road Trips Podcast with guests Ivanka and Ekaterina.

To the point of this foreigner's impression however, the negative aspect of these changes is of course that Ukraine is now a country at war, fighting against Russia, who is barely disguising its actions as those of local revolting pro-Russians. Ukraine has lost the beaches and vineyards of Crimea to the Kremlin, and young badly equipped volunteers, making up most of the Ukrainian armed forces, are still dying on the Eastern front. Being a simple tourist you would not suspect this enjoyable country to be really at war. But it is a reality, with consequences.

A "piano of the revolution" on the Kiev streets, soldiers fund-raising on Adreivsky, Kiev, a volunteer point in Lviv doing fundraising for drafted soldiers and their family, and Dynamo Kiev fans showing their support for the troops.

Yet, despite seeing many depart for the ranks of the army, and fighting a powerful and manipulative neighbour, there is nevertheless in the hearts of young people around the country, a beautiful and pure kind of patriotism. With their backs against the wall, the feelings I have encountered around here, have not feelings of hate towards their neighbour or towards other groups. I only saw feelings of intense love for their homeland, and an understanding that "politics" is the responsible for this threat, not the Russian people. Even from students for example, who would normally rather stay away from patriotic outbursts, the threat to their country has revived in all I have met a sense of belonging and a strong affection for their nation.

 

Extracts of the Ukrainian Hymn, heard here and there in Odessa and Kiev, as well as a bit of "My Little Independence", performed on the traditional Bandura.

 

Many of them have become involved with associations that aim to provide supplies and equipment to the soldiers in the East, the state struggling, and failing, to do so. Young Ukrainians are supporting the defence of their country by making up for their State's failing, of their own dedicated initiative, and talking with some of them is both impressive and inspiring.

And that is the one thing that has touched me the most in this country.

I would rather not go on too much about politics though. When you travel, you realize how strange borders are. Inhabitants on either side of them are so similar, eat the same things, sing in a similar way, and yet, watch different TV channels and so end up thinking they are completely different to their neighbours, and associate to a whole people, the decisions of their powerful politicians. That doesn't mean to say Ukraine's problems with Russia aren't real, especially when you consider the kind of pro-Putin propaganda and all the lies about Ukraine being constantly dished out by Moscow these days.

But anyway, we should rather change the subject completely. With a little song perhaps! Absolutely nothing to do with strained international relationships here. At all. It's about a man called Sasha, getting along with his life and his garden. Unfortunately "next door to him lives this man, this bully Igor", and so Sasha has currently got his hands full with tricky "Neighbourhood Issues".

 
 

Eventually, or hopefully, time and understanding will "wipe away" these unfortunate issues.

 
souvenir, anyone?

souvenir, anyone?

 

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